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Oregon Dunes offers attractive backpacking that few bother to consider

The smell of salt in the air adds zest to the evening meal, even if you didn't need to hike very far before rehydrating that freeze-dried Santa Fe Style Chicken.

And the sound of crashing waves lulls you to sleep, just as it would at an expensive oceanfront lodge or tough-to-reserve campground.

So why don't more people strap on a pack and find their own sleeping spot in the sand?

The comparative lack of backpackers on the coast is a bit of a mystery, according to Sharon Stewart, who manages dispersed recreation in the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.

Even though vast parts of the dunes are off-limits to noisy dune buggies, "backpackers are still infrequent," she says.

Infrequent enough that permits aren't required, there are no quotas and it's easy to find solitude.

On a sunny June weekend, my partner and I discovered what could easily be ranked among the "el primo" one-night backpack trips in the state: a 6.5-mile loop through the Tahkenitch Dunes midway between Florence and Reedsport.

We did have one disturbance.

Elevation gain is minimal, freshwater is nearby (at least on this route) and it's easy to find a spot to pitch a tent. The only negative we found is that while our chosen route is doable over a weekend, it would be a challenge to make it last all week (as some backpackers prefer in the mountains).


Despite having a 382-mile trail running its length, the Oregon coast has few places far enough from roads, towns and houses to bring to mind a wilderness setting that backpackers seek. And about 80 percent of the Oregon Coast Trail is split between the beach and paved roads, leaving only about 20 percent on trails.

One of the coast's biggest roadless areas is in the Oregon Dunes, a place famous for all-terrain vehicles.

ATV riding on the dunes is indeed popular and legal, but it isn't allowed everywhere. All a backpacker needs to do is figure out where ATVs are restricted, then plot a course accordingly.

"Despite what everybody thinks, we have places for hikers," Stewart said. "We don't have designated wilderness, but as long as you stay away from the riding areas, you can find plenty of solitude. Half the Oregon Dunes is set aside for nonmotorized recreation."

To begin our trip, we stopped at the Siuslaw National Forest's Oregon Dunes headquarters in Reedsport to get current information.

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